Panther Chameleons are obligate insectivores throughout their lives, requiring varied live prey items with proper supplementation to prevent the nutritional deficiencies that plague captive chameleons. Providing appropriate nutrition involves understanding not just what to feed, but how to prepare feeders, supplement schedules, and feeding frequency appropriate to age and sex.
In the wild, Panther Chameleons consume diverse insects, spiders, and occasional small vertebrates including smaller chameleons. Their diet naturally varies seasonally with prey availability, providing automatic nutritional diversity that must be intentionally replicated in captivity. Their vision-based hunting means prey must be moving to trigger feeding response, making live insects essential.
Captive diet should prioritize variety over any single feeder insect. Excellent staple insects include crickets (Acheta domesticus or Gryllus bimaculatus), dubia roaches (Blaptica dubia), discoid roaches (Blaberus discoidalis), black soldier fly larvae, and hornworms (Manduca sexta). These should form the dietary foundation, rotated to prevent boredom and ensure nutritional diversity.
Supplemental feeders adding variety and specific nutrients include superworms (for calcium-limited treats), silkworms (excellent nutrition and hydration), butterworms (high fat for weight gain), waxworms (rare treats only due to addiction potential and low nutrition), blue bottle flies, and stick insects. Flying insects trigger strong feeding responses and provide enrichment. Variety prevents dietary deficiencies and maintains feeding interest in these sometimes-finicky eaters.
Feeder size matters critically. Prey items should be no larger than the space between the chameleon's eyes. Oversized prey can cause choking, jaw injuries, or digestive impaction. Start juveniles on pinhead crickets, fruit flies (Drosophila), and small dubia nymphs, graduating to larger prey as they grow. Adults handle crickets up to 1 inch, large dubia roaches, and adult hornworms.
Gut-loading feeders before offering them to chameleons is non-negotiable for proper nutrition. Feed insects high-quality diet 24-48 hours before offering to chameleons. Commercial gut-load diets (Repashy SuperLoad, Cricket Crack) work excellently, or prepare homemade versions with sweet potato, squash, carrots, collard greens, and bee pollen. Properly gut-loaded insects transfer superior nutrition to the chameleon. Empty insects provide minimal nutritional value.
Calcium supplementation is absolutely critical and perhaps the most important aspect of chameleon nutrition. Use calcium powder without vitamin D3 for most feedings, dusting feeder insects by shaking them in a bag with powder immediately before feeding. Light dusting where insects appear lightly frosted is appropriate β heavy coating causes insects to become unpalatable. For chameleons kept indoors under artificial UVB, use calcium with D3 2-3 times monthly to prevent metabolic bone disease.
Multivitamin supplementation provides essential micronutrients missing from insect-only diets. Dust feeders with quality reptile multivitamin (Repashy Calcium Plus LoD, Reptivite without D3) 1-2 times weekly. Over-supplementation causes toxicity, particularly vitamin A and D3 hypervitaminosis, while under-supplementation causes deficiency diseases. Following established schedules prevents both extremes.
Feeding frequency depends on age, sex, and health status. Hatchling and juvenile Panther Chameleons (0-6 months) should receive food daily, eating as many appropriately-sized insects as they'll consume β typically 10-20 small feeders daily. Their rapid growth demands constant nutrition. Sub-adults (6-12 months) can transition to 10-15 feeders every other day, monitoring body condition to adjust.
Adult males (12+ months) require 5-10 appropriately-sized insects 2-3 times weekly. Overfeeding adult males causes obesity, gout, and shortened lifespan. Adult females require similar feeding but gravid females demand increased nutrition β daily feeding with 8-12 insects β to support egg development. After egg-laying, females need intensive refeeding to recover lost body condition.
Hydration comes entirely from water droplets on leaves during misting sessions and from drinking from drippers. Many chameleons ignore water for the first few minutes of misting, then begin actively licking droplets from leaves. Extended misting sessions (5+ minutes) once daily ensure adequate drinking opportunity. Signs of proper hydration include clear eyes (not sunken), healthy skin turgor, and regular urination with white urates.
Feeding observation is essential. Chameleons naturally reduce feeding when preparing to shed, after egg-laying, or during seasonal slowdowns. However, prolonged appetite loss indicates stress, illness, or husbandry problems requiring immediate investigation. Weight monitoring through regular weighing sessions detects gradual losses hidden by normal appearance. Maintaining feeding logs helps identify patterns and problems.