Zebra Isopods are detritivores and decomposers, consuming primarily decaying organic matter in various forms. Their natural diet consists overwhelmingly of decomposing leaf litter and rotting wood, supplemented opportunistically with other organic materials including fungi, dead insects, and animal waste. In captivity, replicating this varied diet ensures robust health, rapid growth, and successful breeding while maintaining the beneficial gut microbiome that facilitates decomposition.
Leaf litter serves as the primary staple food and should be constantly available in abundance. Hardwood leaves from oak, maple, beech, magnolia, and similar species work excellently. Collect leaves that have naturally fallen and begun decomposing, as these are softer and more nutritious than fresh leaves. Avoid conifers (pine, spruce, cedar) due to potentially toxic resins. Store dried leaves in breathable bags, adding handfuls to the enclosure as older material becomes processed. The continuous presence of decaying leaves is non-negotiable for healthy isopod cultures.
Rotting wood provides essential nutrition and beneficial microorganisms, presented as chunks of soft, decomposed hardwood. White-rotted wood (soft, pale, and crumbly) is ideal, as the fungal decomposition makes nutrients highly available. Avoid treated lumber, cedar, pine, and other resinous woods. Many keepers use cork bark pieces, which serve as both shelter and slow-release food source. Replenish wood as it becomes fully consumed, typically every few months depending on colony size.
Supplemental vegetables and fruits provide variety and boost nutrition, offered one to two times weekly in moderate amounts. Proven favorites include carrots, zucchini, squash, sweet potato, cucumber, and leafy greens. Fruits like apples, bananas, pears, and melons are accepted enthusiastically but should be offered sparingly due to high sugar content that can promote mold. Cut vegetables into slices or chunks and place them on the drier side of the enclosure. Remove uneaten portions after twenty-four to forty-eight hours to prevent spoilage and mold.
Protein supplementation supports breeding females, growing juveniles, and overall colony vigor, offered once or twice weekly in small quantities. Freeze-dried shrimp, fish food flakes or pellets, crushed dried mealworms, and specialized isopod protein foods work excellently. Protein is essential but must be carefully managed, as excess protein decomposition rapidly creates ammonia spikes that harm the colony. Place protein sources on the dry side where they won't spoil as quickly, and remove any uneaten portions within twelve to twenty-four hours.
Calcium is absolutely critical for exoskeleton formation and molting success, provided through cuttlebone, crushed eggshells, oyster shell, or limestone powder. Place a piece of cuttlebone in the enclosure permanently, replacing it as consumed. Calcium deficiency causes molting problems, soft exoskeletons, and poor reproduction. The heavily calcified exoskeletons of Armadillidium species mean calcium demand is higher than for some other isopod genera.
Commercial isopod foods have become increasingly available and provide convenient, nutritionally optimized feeding options. These blended foods typically combine plant materials, proteins, and minerals in balanced ratios. While not essential for success, commercial diets simplify feeding and ensure complete nutrition. They work particularly well for beginner keepers still learning to balance varied natural foods.
Feeding frequency is essentially continuous rather than scheduled, as isopods constantly graze on available food sources. Maintain abundant leaf litter and wood at all times, supplementing with vegetables and protein on the schedules noted above. Monitor food consumption to avoid accumulation of uneaten items that mold or decompose poorly. A well-balanced colony should have visible food available but not excessive rotting material that creates unsanitary conditions.