Successfully housing Vinegaroons requires attention to their fossorial lifestyle and specific environmental needs, though their care remains accessible to beginners willing to research proper setup. The enclosure must emphasize horizontal floor space over height, as these ground-dwelling arachnids cannot climb smooth surfaces and spend minimal time above ground. A minimum twenty-gallon terrarium for adults provides adequate space, while larger enclosures up to forty gallons offer more territory and better temperature and humidity gradients.
Substrate depth is absolutely critical and non-negotiable for Vinegaroon husbandry. Provide six to eight inches minimum of moisture-retaining substrate that holds tunnels without collapsing. Coconut fiber (coco coir), peat moss, or organic topsoil works excellently, or combinations thereof. The substrate must be moist in deeper layers while allowing the surface to dry slightly, creating the humidity gradient essential for their health. Pack substrate firmly to provide structural stability for burrow construction, as loose substrate frustrates their excavation efforts and leads to constant tunnel collapse.
Enclosure design should incorporate hide options even though Vinegaroons will construct their own burrows. Cork bark pieces, half-buried ceramic plant pots, or commercial reptile hides provide immediate security while the animal establishes its permanent burrow system. Place these hides partially buried to encourage burrow initiation sites. Many keepers use one side of the enclosure as the hide/burrow area and the other as open space, facilitating easier maintenance and observation.
Temperature requirements are moderate and achievable in most homes without extensive heating equipment. Maintain a temperature range of seventy-two to eighty degrees Fahrenheit, easily accomplished with room temperature in many climates. For cooler environments, an under-tank heating pad on one-third of the enclosure floor provides gentle warmth without drying the substrate excessively. Never use overhead heating that desiccates substrate and creates dangerous hot spots. Temperature gradients allow the animal to thermoregulate by moving between warmer and cooler areas.
Humidity management requires careful attention to substrate moisture levels and enclosure ventilation. Aim for seventy to eighty percent humidity in the deeper substrate layers where the Vinegaroon spends most time, while maintaining better ventilation near the surface. Achieve this through occasional deep substrate watering, keeping approximately half the substrate moist while allowing surface drying. A shallow water dish provides drinking water and contributes to ambient humidity, though ensure it's shallow enough to prevent drowning and positioned where it won't collapse into burrows.
Ventilation is as critical as humidity, as stagnant, humid air promotes deadly bacterial and fungal growth. Use enclosures with mesh screen tops or add ventilation holes covered with fine mesh to prevent escapes while ensuring airflow. The combination of good ventilation and moist substrate seems contradictory but achieves the essential balance of high humidity without stagnant air. Monitor for any musty odors or visible mold growth, both indicating insufficient ventilation requiring immediate correction.
Furnishing beyond substrate and hides is minimal. Some keepers add artificial or live plants for aesthetic purposes, though Vinegaroons don't interact with them significantly. Pieces of bark, cork, or wood on the substrate surface provide additional security and enrichment. Avoid overcrowding the enclosure with decorations, as these arachnids appreciate open space for their nocturnal patrols.
Molting occurs deep within the burrow system where the animal is completely protected from observation and disturbance. Pre-molt Vinegaroons refuse food and remain underground for extended periods, sometimes weeks. Never dig out or disturb a Vinegaroon during this period, as molting is exceptionally dangerous and disturbance can prove fatal. Ensure substrate moisture remains adequate during molting periods to prevent the new exoskeleton from hardening prematurely. Post-molt individuals emerge slowly, resuming normal activity only after the exoskeleton fully hardens, a process taking days to weeks.