OBT

OBT
📸 Photo Gallery Coming Soon

Furry Critter Network Etsy Shop

Quick Facts

🔬 Scientific Name
Pterinochilus murinus
🦂 Invertebrate Type
Tarantula
⚕️ Venom Status
Medically Significant
📊 Care Level
Advanced
😊 Temperament
Defensive
📏 Adult Size
4-6 inch legspan
⏱️ Lifespan
12-15 years females, 3-4 years males
🌡️ Temperature Range
75-85°F
💧 Humidity Range
55-70%
🍽️ Diet Type
Insectivore
🌍 Origin
Central and Southern Africa
🏠 Min. Enclosure Size
10x10x10 inches terrestrial
📐 Size
Medium

OBT - Names & Recognition

The Orange Baboon Tarantula, scientifically known as Pterinochilus murinus, stands as one of the most infamous species in the tarantula keeping hobby. This Old World tarantula has earned numerous colorful nicknames reflecting its notorious temperament, including OBT, Orange Bitey Thing, and occasionally the Pterror due to its genus name combined with its aggressive nature.

The species belongs to the family Theraphosidae within the genus Pterinochilus, which contains several African tarantula species. The specific epithet murinus references a mouse-like appearance, though most keepers find this description amusing given the species' decidedly un-mouselike personality. Within the hobby, various color forms are recognized, most notably the Typical Color Form displaying orange coloration and the Usambara Color Form showing deeper red tones, named after the Usambara Mountains of Tanzania.

Orange Baboon Tarantulas are frequently confused with other Pterinochilus species in the trade, and accurate identification can prove challenging. The term baboon spider applies broadly to African theraphosids and refers to the pad-like appearance of their feet, though the name sometimes causes confusion with baboon spiders from other genera. Throughout African regions, these tarantulas hold various local names and are generally respected and avoided by local populations who understand their defensive capabilities.

The species represents an important milestone for many tarantula keepers, often marking the transition from beginner New World species to more challenging Old World specimens. While not recommended for inexperienced keepers, the OBT provides invaluable lessons in proper enclosure security, careful husbandry practices, and respect for potentially dangerous animals.

OBT Physical Description

Adult Orange Baboon Tarantulas achieve a legspan of approximately four to six inches, with females reaching the larger end of this range while males tend toward the smaller side. Their body structure follows the typical theraphosid pattern with a robust cephalothorax and proportionally large opisthosoma that varies in size depending on feeding and hydration status.

The coloration that gives this species its common name ranges from bright orange to rusty brown depending on the individual specimen and color form. The Typical Color Form displays vibrant orange hues across the legs and carapace with darker femoral banding, while the Usambara variant exhibits deeper reddish-orange tones. Freshly molted specimens show particularly vivid coloration that may fade slightly between molts. The abdomen typically displays darker patterning with chevron markings visible on some individuals.

Sexual dimorphism becomes apparent as specimens mature. Males develop longer legs relative to body size, giving them a leggier appearance, and possess tibial hooks on their front legs used during mating. Female OBTs maintain the robust, stocky build throughout their lives and lack the tibial hooks. Males also develop slightly less vibrant coloration in some cases and their ultimate molt produces specialized pedipalps for sperm transfer. Mature males can be identified by their emboli, the bulb-like structures on their palps.

The species possesses notable physical adaptations including large chelicerae capable of delivering significant bites and stout legs designed for their semi-fossorial lifestyle. Unlike New World tarantulas, OBTs lack urticating hairs entirely, relying instead on their speed, venom, and willingness to bite for defense. Their exoskeleton displays a subtle sheen, particularly noticeable on freshly molted specimens.

Juveniles hatch at tiny sizes and gradually develop their orange coloration through successive molts. Early instars may appear more drab or brownish before achieving the characteristic orange coloring. Growth rates are moderate to fast with proper feeding and temperatures, with specimens reaching maturity within two to four years depending on conditions and feeding frequency.

Handling Tolerance

Orange Baboon Tarantulas should never be handled under any circumstances. They possess medically significant venom, lightning-fast defensive strikes, and will bite with minimal provocation. Their speed makes them extremely dangerous to attempt to handle, even for experienced keepers.

Temperament

OBTs are infamous for their highly defensive and aggressive temperament. They display threat postures readily, strike with extreme speed, and are unpredictable in their reactions. This species earned nicknames like Orange Bitey Thing for good reason.

Activity Level

Orange Baboon Tarantulas are notably active compared to many tarantula species. They construct elaborate tunnel webs throughout their enclosure and can often be observed patrolling their territory or actively hunting, particularly during evening hours.

Space Requirements

OBTs require moderate enclosure space with emphasis on substrate depth for burrowing and webbing. A terrestrial setup of approximately ten by ten by ten inches provides adequate room for an adult, though they will utilize every inch with their extensive web systems.

Molting Frequency

Juveniles molt frequently every few weeks during rapid growth phases while adults molt once or twice annually. Pre-molt is characterized by darkening coloration, appetite loss, and reduced activity. The species typically experiences uncomplicated molts with proper humidity levels.

Environmental Sensitivity

OBTs are remarkably hardy and tolerant of environmental variations compared to many tarantula species. They adapt well to a range of conditions within their parameters and rarely experience husbandry-related issues when basic temperature and humidity requirements are met.

Humidity Requirements

Orange Baboon Tarantulas require moderate humidity around fifty-five to seventy percent, easily maintained through occasional misting and a water dish. They tolerate drier conditions better than tropical species but still require adequate moisture for successful molting.

Feeding Difficulty

OBTs are voracious and enthusiastic feeders that rarely refuse a meal except during pre-molt. They attack prey with impressive speed and aggression, accept a wide variety of appropriately-sized insects, and make feeding one of the easiest aspects of their care.

Temperament

The Orange Baboon Tarantula's temperament defines its reputation within the hobby, and that reputation is well-earned. These tarantulas display consistently defensive and unpredictable behavior that demands constant vigilance from keepers. Rather than the calm tolerance shown by many beginner species, OBTs approach every interaction as a potential threat requiring immediate defensive response.

Defensive behaviors manifest at the slightest provocation and sometimes with no apparent trigger at all. The classic threat posture involves raising the front legs and cephalothorax high while exposing the fangs, often accompanied by rapid jerking movements. Unlike some species that bluff extensively before striking, OBTs frequently skip extended displays entirely and proceed directly to biting. Their strike speed is exceptional even among Old World tarantulas, making any close work with these spiders genuinely dangerous.

Activity patterns tend toward the nocturnal and crepuscular, with peak activity occurring during evening and nighttime hours. However, OBTs remain alert and ready to respond to disturbances at any time, displaying none of the drowsy daytime behavior seen in some species. They actively patrol their enclosures, maintain their extensive web systems, and investigate any vibrations or disturbances with remarkable speed. This activity level makes them more visible than many tarantula species despite their defensive nature.

Web construction represents a defining behavioral characteristic of the species. OBTs produce copious amounts of silk, often transforming entire enclosures into complex tunnel web systems within weeks of introduction. These webs serve as both retreat and hunting apparatus, with trip lines extending throughout the enclosure to detect prey. The tunnels provide security while allowing rapid movement throughout their territory.

Hunting behavior demonstrates the species' impressive capabilities. OBTs are ambush predators that use their web systems to detect prey vibrations before launching rapid attacks. They waste no time subduing prey and will pursue fleeing insects with startling speed. Feeding responses can be quite dramatic, with tarantulas often striking before prey fully enters the enclosure.

In captivity, OBTs rarely acclimate to their keeper's presence in any meaningful way. Unlike some species that may become somewhat accustomed to routine maintenance, OBTs typically maintain their defensive posture regardless of how long they remain in a collection. Some individuals may retreat to their burrows during maintenance rather than attacking, but this cannot be relied upon. Every enclosure opening should be treated as if the tarantula will bolt or strike.

Enclosure & Husbandry

Housing Orange Baboon Tarantulas requires careful consideration of both the species' husbandry needs and the keeper's safety requirements. The enclosure must maintain appropriate environmental conditions while preventing any possibility of escape, as a loose OBT in a home represents a genuine safety concern unlike an escaped New World species.

Enclosure dimensions for adult OBTs should measure approximately ten by ten by ten inches, providing adequate floor space for their terrestrial lifestyle while limiting excessive height that could result in fall injuries. Acrylic or glass enclosures with secure, front-opening doors work best, allowing maintenance without reaching over an agitated tarantula. Top-opening enclosures complicate maintenance significantly given the species' tendency to climb and strike upward at disturbances. The enclosure must feature absolutely secure closures, as OBTs will exploit any gap in their attempts to escape.

Substrate choices should prioritize moisture retention while allowing burrow construction. A mixture of coconut fiber, organic topsoil, and sphagnum moss provides excellent substrate that holds burrows well and maintains humidity. Substrate depth should reach four to six inches to accommodate the species' semi-fossorial tendencies and allow for proper humidity gradients with a drier surface and more humid depths. The OBT will restructure whatever substrate arrangement is provided according to its own preferences.

Temperature requirements fall within the seventy-five to eighty-five degree Fahrenheit range, easily maintained at room temperature in most homes with supplemental heating if needed. Heat mats placed on the enclosure side rather than underneath provide gentle warmth without cooking the substrate or creating dangerous hot spots. Thermostatic control prevents overheating and should be considered essential rather than optional. Temperature gradients allow the tarantula to thermoregulate by moving between warmer and cooler areas.

Humidity should remain between fifty-five and seventy percent, monitored with an accurate hygrometer. Unlike highly tropical species, OBTs tolerate moderate humidity well and can suffer from overly wet conditions. Light misting once or twice weekly combined with a water dish typically maintains appropriate levels. Overwatering leads to dangerous conditions promoting mold, bacteria, and mites. The water dish should be shallow enough to prevent drowning but large enough to contribute to ambient humidity.

Ventilation warrants particular attention, as adequate airflow prevents the stagnant, overly humid conditions that promote fungal and bacterial growth. Cross-ventilation through mesh panels on opposite sides of the enclosure works best. Screen tops alone often provide insufficient airflow while also presenting escape risks if the mesh is not perfectly secured.

Hide structures become largely irrelevant given the species' prodigious webbing habits. Any cork bark, half logs, or artificial hides will quickly become incorporated into the overall web structure. Providing starter hides can help encourage initial settling but expect them to disappear beneath silk within days. Live plants rarely survive the webbing process and are not recommended.

Maintenance requires exceptional caution and appropriate tools. Long forceps or tongs should be used for all prey introduction and removal of uneaten items. Water dish refilling can be accomplished with a spray bottle or turkey baster to minimize enclosure opening time. Spot cleaning should occur regularly but full substrate changes can be minimized through careful maintenance. When complete rehousing becomes necessary, extreme caution and proper planning are essential to prevent escape or envenomation.

Feeding & Nutrition

Feeding Orange Baboon Tarantulas presents one of the easier aspects of their care, as these voracious predators rarely refuse food and attack prey with impressive enthusiasm. Their robust appetites make maintaining proper nutrition straightforward for keepers willing to respect the species' feeding responses.

In the wild, OBTs consume a variety of invertebrates including insects, other arachnids, and occasionally small vertebrates that venture too close to their burrows. This opportunistic feeding behavior translates well to captivity where a varied diet of commercially available feeder insects meets all nutritional requirements. Crickets, dubia roaches, red runner roaches, locusts, and superworms all make excellent food items depending on the tarantula's size.

Prey sizing should follow the standard tarantula guideline of offering items roughly equal to or smaller than the opisthosoma length. OBTs can certainly take larger prey but appropriately sized items reduce stress and potential injury during feeding. Oversized prey may fight back, potentially harming a molting or vulnerable tarantula, making conservative sizing the safer approach.

Feeding frequency varies with age and size. Juveniles in active growth phases can be fed every three to five days to fuel rapid development. Their small size means individual prey items contain relatively little nutrition, necessitating more frequent feeding. Sub-adults benefit from feeding every five to seven days as growth rates slow. Adults typically thrive on weekly feeding with occasional periods of reduced feeding mimicking natural prey availability cycles.

Prey introduction requires the caution appropriate to any OBT interaction. Using long forceps or tongs to place prey items minimizes the time the enclosure remains open and keeps hands well away from the spider. OBTs frequently strike at movement near the enclosure opening, so quick, deliberate prey placement works best. Some keepers prefer prekilling prey for particularly aggressive individuals, though most OBTs readily take live items.

Gut-loading feeder insects maximizes the nutritional value passed to the tarantula. Feeding crickets, roaches, and other prey items nutritious vegetables, fruits, and commercial gut-load formulas for twenty-four to forty-eight hours before offering them to tarantulas ensures optimal nutrition. This practice becomes especially important for growing juveniles with high nutritional demands.

Uneaten prey must be removed within twenty-four hours to prevent harassment of the tarantula and maintain enclosure cleanliness. This presents obvious challenges with OBTs and should be accomplished using tongs rather than fingers. Crickets left in enclosures can chew on tarantulas during vulnerable periods, potentially causing serious injury to pre-molt or recently molted specimens.

Water access should be constant through a shallow, stable water dish. OBTs drink regularly when provided the opportunity, and dehydration causes serious health issues. The water dish also contributes to ambient humidity. Refreshing water every few days prevents bacterial growth and ensures clean drinking water availability. Heavy, ceramic dishes resist tipping better than plastic alternatives.

Feeding cessation often indicates approaching molt and should be respected rather than addressed with continued prey offerings. Pre-molt periods can last several weeks, during which the tarantula should not be disturbed with prey items. Resuming feeding should wait until several days after molt completion to allow the new exoskeleton to harden sufficiently.

OBT Health & Lifespan

Orange Baboon Tarantulas prove remarkably hardy given appropriate husbandry, with females capable of reaching twelve to fifteen years in captivity. Males live significantly shorter lives, typically three to four years and dying within months of their ultimate molt. The species' wide natural distribution reflects their adaptability, and this robustness translates to captive care where they tolerate minor husbandry variations better than many delicate species. Signs of health include active webbing behavior, good feeding response, alert defensive posture, and smooth, unscarred exoskeleton. Like all invertebrates, OBTs have essentially no access to specialized veterinary care, making prevention through proper husbandry the only practical approach to health management.

Common Health Issues

  • Dehydration occurs when humidity drops too low or water access is inadequate, causing lethargy, shriveled opisthosoma, and increased molting complications. Despite their tolerance for moderate humidity, OBTs still require consistent access to fresh water and appropriate ambient moisture levels.
  • Molting complications result from inadequate humidity, disturbance during the vulnerable molting period, or underlying health issues. Stuck molts can cause lost limbs or death if intervention is not carefully applied. Increasing humidity and ensuring complete isolation during pre-molt prevents most issues.
  • Mite infestations appear as tiny moving specks on the tarantula and substrate, causing stress and potentially transmitting pathogens. Prevention through clean husbandry, quarantine of new specimens, and avoiding wild-caught prey insects remains the primary defense.
  • Fungal and bacterial infections develop from overly wet conditions, poor ventilation, or contaminated substrate. Affected areas may appear discolored or fuzzy, requiring immediate environmental correction and potential isolation of affected specimens.
  • Injuries from prey items occur when oversized or aggressive feeders are left too long with vulnerable tarantulas. Crickets particularly may chew on molting tarantulas, causing potentially fatal wounds. Appropriately sized prey and timely removal of uneaten items prevents this issue.
  • Internal parasites including nematodes can affect wild-caught specimens or those exposed to contaminated substrates. Symptoms include appetite loss, lethargy, and abnormal waste. Purchasing captive-bred specimens and avoiding wild-caught feeder insects minimizes this risk.

Preventive Care & Health Monitoring

  • Maintain humidity between fifty-five and seventy percent using accurate hygrometers, with slightly higher levels during pre-molt periods. A water dish and occasional misting typically maintain appropriate levels without creating overly wet conditions that promote infections.
  • Monitor temperature with reliable thermometers and maintain the seventy-five to eighty-five degree range through appropriate heating methods. Avoid heat lamps that dry enclosures excessively and use thermostatic control to prevent dangerous temperature spikes.
  • Keep enclosures clean through regular spot cleaning, removal of uneaten prey within twenty-four hours, and periodic substrate changes. Never use chemicals, pesticides, or cleaning products near invertebrate enclosures as these prove toxic to arachnids.
  • Quarantine all new specimens for minimum thirty days using separate equipment and enclosures before placing them near existing collections. This isolation period allows detection of mites, infections, or parasites before they can spread.

With proper husbandry emphasizing appropriate humidity, temperature, and clean conditions, Orange Baboon Tarantulas prove hardy and long-lived captives. The lack of invertebrate veterinary options makes prevention essential, as most problems cannot be effectively treated once they develop. Keepers who maintain consistent environmental conditions and practice good husbandry techniques can expect females to thrive for well over a decade, providing years of impressive display and fascinating behavior observation.

Handling & Care

Handling Orange Baboon Tarantulas is never recommended under any circumstances, and this point cannot be emphasized strongly enough. Unlike New World species where handling, while still risky, may be possible with calm individuals, OBTs combine medically significant venom with explosive speed and hair-trigger defensive responses that make any handling attempt dangerous. These tarantulas should be considered display animals exclusively, appreciated from outside their secure enclosure.

The species' venom potency elevates consequences of any bite significantly beyond the pain and swelling typical of New World species. While not considered life-threatening to healthy adults, OBT envenomation causes severe pain, significant swelling, muscle cramps, and potentially systemic effects including nausea and cramping that may persist for days. Individual reactions vary, and no one should discover their personal sensitivity through an avoidable bite.

Beyond venom concerns, the sheer speed of Pterinochilus murinus makes controlling the situation nearly impossible once a handling attempt begins going wrong. These tarantulas can cross an arm in the blink of an eye and disappear before keepers can react. An escaped OBT in a home represents a genuine safety hazard for all occupants and can prove extremely difficult to recapture safely.

Molting periods require particular caution despite the lack of handling. Pre-molt OBTs may burrow deeply and refuse food for extended periods. The enclosure should not be disturbed during this time, and prey items should be withheld to prevent injury to the vulnerable molting tarantula. Post-molt specimens require several days to a week for their new exoskeleton to harden before feeding can resume. The tarantula will indicate readiness by resuming normal activity patterns.

Routine care should minimize enclosure opening and interaction entirely. Water dish refilling can be accomplished with long-handled implements or spray bottles. Prey introduction uses forceps to place items quickly and close the enclosure. Any necessary maintenance should be planned in advance with all tools ready to minimize open enclosure time. Having a catch cup available during any enclosure opening provides emergency containment options.

Rehousing becomes necessary as tarantulas outgrow enclosures or substrate requires complete replacement. This process requires careful planning, appropriate catch cups, and ideally two people working together. Never attempt to transfer an OBT by coaxing it onto a hand or arm. The cup-and-cardboard method, using a clear deli cup placed over the tarantula and cardboard slid underneath, provides the safest transfer approach when executed carefully.

Observation provides all the interaction these spiders need or want. OBTs display fascinating behavior patterns including complex web construction, impressive hunting strikes, and active territory maintenance that prove rewarding to observe from safe distance. Keepers who accept the species as a display animal rather than a handleable pet find tremendous satisfaction in maintaining these remarkable tarantulas without the risk associated with attempted interaction.

Suitability & Considerations

Orange Baboon Tarantulas are definitively advanced-level captives that should only be considered by keepers with substantial experience maintaining other tarantula species. First-time tarantula keepers or those familiar only with calm, handleable species lack the skills, experience, and reflexes necessary for safe OBT keeping. The jump from beginner species to Pterinochilus murinus represents one of the most dramatic difficulty increases in the hobby.

Experience requirements extend beyond simple tarantula keeping to include specific skills relevant to defensive Old World species. Keepers should have experience with enclosure security measures, safe feeding and maintenance practices, and ideally some exposure to other Old World species before acquiring an OBT. Understanding threat displays, defensive behavior patterns, and proper escape prevention protocols proves essential for safe keeping.

Time commitment remains relatively modest compared to many pets, as OBTs require minimal daily interaction beyond visual health checks. Weekly feeding, water dish maintenance, and occasional spot cleaning constitute the regular care requirements. However, keepers must remain vigilant about enclosure security and prepared for the heightened attention any maintenance requires. Rushing through OBT care leads to mistakes and potentially dangerous situations.

Financial considerations for OBT keeping remain modest. Initial setup costs include an appropriate enclosure, substrate, heating equipment if necessary, and monitoring tools. Ongoing expenses primarily involve feeder insects and substrate replacement. The species' hardiness means veterinary expenses essentially do not exist, though this also means no treatment options exist when problems develop. Purchasing from reputable breeders of captive-bred specimens represents a worthwhile investment over potentially parasitized or stressed wild-caught animals.

Family suitability considerations must acknowledge the genuine risk posed by this species. Households with children require absolute certainty that enclosures cannot be opened by curious young hands. The consequences of a child receiving an OBT bite extend beyond the immediate medical concerns to lasting fear and trauma. Similarly, household members with arachnophobia deserve consideration, as an escaped OBT would prove far more traumatic than a loose docile species. Honest conversations with all household members should precede OBT acquisition.

Other pets present escape-related concerns primarily. Dogs or cats might knock over or damage enclosures, and a loose OBT encountering a pet creates dangerous situations for both animals. Secure placement of enclosures away from other pet access reduces this risk but cannot eliminate it entirely.

Legal considerations for OBT keeping rarely present obstacles, as the species is not CITES listed and most jurisdictions permit their keeping. However, some localities restrict venomous animal keeping broadly, potentially including medically significant tarantulas. Verifying local regulations before acquisition prevents potential legal issues.

Realistic expectations should center on appreciation of OBTs as display animals providing fascinating behavioral observation rather than hands-on interaction. Keepers who find satisfaction in maintaining impressive, challenging species and observing complex behavior patterns will enjoy OBT keeping. Those seeking handleable, interactive pets should direct attention toward other species entirely. The Orange Baboon Tarantula rewards keepers who respect its nature and maintain it appropriately with years of compelling observation and the satisfaction of successfully keeping one of the hobby's most demanding species.