King Baboon Tarantula
Species Description

The King Baboon Tarantula holds the scientific name Pelinobius muticus, though many hobbyists still know it by its former classification, Citharischius crawshayi. The name change was officially made in 2010 by British arachnologist Richard Gallon, who revised the taxonomy of this remarkable species. Despite the scientific update, references to both names persist in the hobby literature and dealer lists.

The genus name Pelinobius derives from Greek roots suggesting 'thread-like life,' possibly referencing the silk-lined burrow structures this species creates. Curiously, the species name muticus translates to 'muted' or 'silent,' which seems ironic given this tarantula's famous ability to produce loud stridulating sounds when threatened. This acoustic defense is one of the species' most distinctive traits.

The common name 'baboon spider' is a colloquial term applied to African tarantulas collectively, derived from the supposed resemblance between the tarantula's legs protruding from burrow entrances and the fingers of baboons. The 'King' designation recognizes this species' status as the largest tarantula found on the African continent. Currently, Pelinobius muticus stands as the only described species in its genus, highlighting how uniquely different it is from other baboon spiders.

The King Baboon presents an unmistakable appearance that immediately conveys power and mass. Adult females achieve impressive dimensions, reaching legspans of 7 to 9 inches when fully mature. More striking than their span is their sheer bulk, with thick, muscular legs and a robust body that gives them an almost bulldog-like build among tarantulas. Males are somewhat smaller but still substantial compared to many other species.

The coloration is a rich, velvety copper-orange to rusty chocolate-brown that covers the entire body in an extremely fine coat of tiny hairs. This uniform, mole-like pelage gives the spider a distinctive satiny sheen that sets it apart from the hairier appearance of many other tarantulas. The overall effect is elegant and understated, a warm monochromatic palette that emphasizes the spider's substantial form.

One of the most distinctive features of the King Baboon is its uniquely structured hind legs. These legs are disproportionately stout and powerful, sitting higher than the other legs and splaying outward in a slightly bow-legged or pigeon-toed stance. This unusual configuration is an adaptation for their fossorial lifestyle, providing powerful digging capability for excavating their extensive burrow systems.

The abdomen is notably elongated and cylindrical compared to many other tarantula species, tapering toward the spinnerets. The chelicerae house large, impressive black fangs capable of delivering painful envenomation. The overall impression is of a spider optimized for underground life, powerfully built for digging, and equipped with formidable defenses.

Juvenile King Baboons begin life small but share the same general body plan and coloration as adults. Growth is extremely slow compared to most tarantulas, with the characteristic copper coloration developing gradually as the spider matures through successive molts over many years.

The King Baboon has earned a reputation as one of the most defensive tarantula species in the hobby, and this reputation is well deserved. Unlike more reclusive fossorial species that prefer to retreat into their burrows when disturbed, the King Baboon will readily stand its ground and defend itself with striking force. This unwavering defensive posture, combined with medically significant venom and impressive speed, demands respectful distance at all times.

When threatened, the King Baboon displays a characteristic defensive sequence. The spider first raises its front legs high into the air, exposing its large fangs in an unmistakable threat posture. Simultaneously, it produces a distinctive stridulating sound by rubbing specialized structures on its chelicerae against opposing surfaces on its pedipalps. This hissing or rasping sound is surprisingly loud and audible from several feet away, serving as an effective warning to potential threats.

If the threat continues, the King Baboon will strike with remarkable speed and force. The bite from an adult specimen is medically significant, causing severe pain, significant swelling, and potentially muscle spasms or cramping. While no fatalities have been recorded, the potency of the venom combined with the spider's willingness to bite makes this a species that commands absolute respect. Even experienced keepers report the impressive speed with which this species can launch defensive strikes.

Despite this formidable defensive capability, the King Baboon is also an extremely reclusive species. Given appropriate housing with deep substrate, it will construct elaborate burrow systems and spend the vast majority of its time underground. Sightings may be rare, with the spider remaining invisible for weeks or even months at a stretch. This combination of extreme defensiveness when encountered and near-complete reclusiveness when undisturbed leads many to call this the ultimate 'pet hole.'

Feeding response is strong and aggressive. When hungry, King Baboons respond with explosive strikes to prey items, dragging them quickly into their burrows. This powerful feeding response extends to anything that disturbs the burrow entrance, including maintenance tools, which is why long-handled implements are essential for working with this species.

Housing a King Baboon requires careful consideration of their obligate fossorial nature and extreme defensive tendencies. The enclosure setup must provide the deep substrate this species requires for burrowing while also allowing for safe maintenance access. Getting this balance right is essential for successful long-term keeping of this challenging species.

The single most critical element of King Baboon husbandry is substrate depth. This species requires a minimum of 10 inches of substrate depth, with 12 inches or more preferred for adult specimens. Without adequate burrowing depth, the spider cannot engage in natural behaviors and may experience stress that manifests in increased surface activity and defensive behavior. The substrate should consist of a well-draining mixture of organic topsoil, coconut fiber, and sand, compacted slightly to support burrow construction.

A 20-gallon enclosure provides adequate floor space for an adult King Baboon, though the tall substrate requirement means standard aquarium proportions work well. The enclosure must have a secure, tightly fitting lid, as these powerful spiders can manipulate loose covers. Ensure any gaps that might allow escape are eliminated. Ventilation should be adequate but not excessive, as the drier conditions this species prefers can be maintained more easily without extensive airflow.

Temperature should be maintained between 75-85°F, with a slight gradient allowing the spider to thermoregulate by choosing different depths within its burrow. Room temperature in most homes is often adequate for the cooler end of this range, with supplemental heating from an under-tank heat mat potentially needed in cooler climates. Heat lamps should be avoided as they can dry out the enclosure excessively.

Humidity should remain moderate, around 60-70%, which is lower than many tropical tarantula species require. The substrate can be allowed to dry almost completely between periodic light mistings. Overwatering is more problematic than slight underwatering for this arid-adapted species. A shallow water dish can be provided and should be changed regularly, though many keepers of deep-burrowing species find the spiders rarely use surface water.

Furnishings should be minimal, consisting primarily of the substrate and possibly a piece of cork bark or rock that the spider may incorporate into its burrow entrance. Position the enclosure in a location with low foot traffic and minimal disturbance, as constant vibration and movement near the enclosure will stress the spider and may prevent proper burrow establishment. Kept in a quiet, dark location, the King Baboon will construct elaborate tunnel systems that can sometimes be observed through the enclosure walls.

Feeding a King Baboon is one of the more straightforward aspects of their care, as these spiders are aggressive, enthusiastic feeders with powerful prey drives. Their strong feeding response ensures that providing adequate nutrition rarely presents any challenges, and food refusal outside of pre-molt periods is uncommon.

Adult King Baboons readily accept a diet of large insects including adult crickets, dubia roaches, grasshoppers, and large mealworms or superworms. The size of prey items should not exceed roughly half the spider's body length to prevent any risk of injury to the tarantula during feeding. A varied diet incorporating multiple prey types ensures complete nutrition and may stimulate stronger feeding responses.

Feeding frequency for adult females is typically once every 7 to 14 days, depending on the size of prey items offered and the spider's apparent appetite. Growing juveniles can be fed more frequently, every 4 to 7 days, to support development, though their growth rate remains slow regardless of feeding frequency. Males, being smaller and shorter-lived, have correspondingly lower food requirements.

The feeding process itself requires caution due to the species' defensive nature. Prey should be introduced using long feeding tongs or forceps, keeping hands and fingers well away from the burrow entrance. The spider will typically emerge partially or strike from within the burrow with impressive speed when prey vibrations are detected. Never leave live prey in the enclosure for extended periods, as uneaten crickets or roaches may disturb or even attempt to feed on a molting spider.

During pre-molt periods, King Baboons will refuse food, and any live prey should be removed from the enclosure. Signs of impending molt include darkening of the abdomen, decreased activity, and food refusal lasting several weeks. After molting, allow the spider's new exoskeleton to harden fully before offering food again, typically waiting at least one to two weeks post-molt.

Fresh, clean water should always be available in a shallow dish. However, given the spider's highly reclusive nature, surface water access may be limited. Some keepers periodically moisten a small area of substrate near the burrow entrance to ensure water availability, though the species' adaptation to arid conditions means they tolerate dry periods well.

King Baboons are remarkably hardy tarantulas once established in appropriate conditions. Their adaptation to the challenging arid environments of East Africa has produced a robust species that tolerates a range of conditions better than many tropical tarantulas. Most health issues that do occur can be traced to inappropriate husbandry, particularly excessive moisture or inadequate burrowing depth. The greatest challenges in keeping this species relate more to safe handling during necessary maintenance than to medical concerns.

With appropriate husbandry focused on adequate substrate depth, moderate humidity, and minimal disturbance, King Baboons prove to be hardy captives capable of living for decades. Their care requirements are not complex, but the species' extreme defensive nature means that safe handling protocols are more important than medical concerns for most keepers.

To state it simply: the King Baboon should never be handled. This is not a recommendation to be casual about but an absolute requirement for safe keeping of this species. The combination of potent venom, large fangs, extreme defensive willingness, and lightning-fast strike speed makes this tarantula genuinely dangerous to handle. Even experienced keepers who have worked with other defensive Old World species approach King Baboons with exceptional caution.

The venom of Pelinobius muticus is considered medically significant. Bites cause severe, immediate pain at the bite site, followed by significant swelling that may spread to surrounding areas. Many bite reports describe muscle spasms or cramping, and symptoms may persist for days or even weeks. While no human fatalities have been documented, the severity of symptoms makes a bite a serious medical event warranting professional attention.

All interaction with this species should be limited to observation and essential maintenance tasks performed with appropriate tools. Long-handled forceps, feeding tongs, and other implements that keep your hands at least 12 inches from the spider are essential equipment. Before beginning any work inside the enclosure, always first determine where the spider is located, usually deep within its burrow.

Rehousing a King Baboon represents the most hazardous routine task in keeping this species. The process should be approached with a detailed plan and all necessary tools prepared in advance. Some keepers prefer a catch-cup method, using a large, clear container to trap the spider against the substrate or enclosure wall before transferring. Others carefully excavate around the burrow system and transfer the entire substrate mass containing the spider.

During feeding, use forceps or tongs to introduce prey items near the burrow entrance, releasing them quickly and withdrawing your hands immediately. The spider may strike at the tongs themselves with remarkable speed and force. Never use fingers to offer food, regardless of how secure the enclosure seems.

In the event of a bite, remain as calm as possible and seek medical attention. Clean the wound thoroughly and monitor for severe allergic reactions. Inform medical personnel that you were bitten by a tarantula, though specific antivenom does not exist for tarantula envenomation. Treatment is typically supportive, addressing pain and symptoms.

The King Baboon is emphatically not a species for beginners or intermediate keepers. This tarantula is suitable only for experienced enthusiasts who have extensive history with Old World species, understand the risks involved, and can commit to the species' unique requirements. Honest self-assessment is essential before acquiring this impressive but demanding animal.

The primary appeal of the King Baboon lies in its status as Africa's largest tarantula and its undeniable presence. The velvety copper coloration, powerful build, and unique leg structure create a striking display animal that represents a milestone acquisition for serious collectors. For those who appreciate observing rather than interacting with their tarantulas, few species make a stronger visual impression.

However, prospective keepers must accept several significant limitations. First, this is quintessentially a 'pet hole' species. The spider will spend nearly all its time within its burrow system, often invisible for weeks at a time. Those seeking an active, visible tarantula will be disappointed. Second, the extreme defensiveness means that routine maintenance tasks require careful planning and appropriate safety precautions. Third, the slow growth rate means that acquiring a juvenile means committing to many years of care before seeing an impressive adult specimen.

The species is best suited for keepers who already maintain collections of Old World tarantulas and have experience with defensive species like those in the Pterinochilus or Poecilotheria genera. Prior experience with obligate burrowers is also valuable, as understanding how to maintain and work around deep burrow systems reduces stress for both keeper and spider.

Those considering a King Baboon should source captive-bred specimens when possible. Captive breeding efforts help ensure sustainable hobby populations and typically produce hardier specimens than wild-caught imports. The species' slow growth rate and difficulty breeding make captive-bred specimens valuable contributions to ongoing conservation of genetic diversity within the hobby.

For the experienced keeper who can provide appropriate housing, accept the species' limitations, and maintain strict safety protocols, the King Baboon represents one of the hobby's most impressive species. The satisfaction of successfully keeping Africa's largest tarantula, combined with their exceptional longevity of 20 or more years for females, creates a rewarding long-term keeping experience for those prepared to meet the challenge.