Giant Danios are compatible with many fish sharing their requirements for space, activity tolerance, and size. Ideal tank mates include other large, active, robust species that appreciate swimming room and can handle the Giants' boisterous energy. Excellent companions include larger barbs like Rosy Barbs, Tinfoil Barbs, or Tiger Barbs (though tigers are fin-nippers, they're active enough to keep up). Rainbow fish including Boesemani Rainbows, Turquoise Rainbows, or other Melanotaenia species make perfect companions with similar activity levels and peaceful temperaments.
Larger, more robust tetras work well in very large tanks. Buenos Aires Tetras, Congo Tetras, or Colombian Tetras can coexist with Giants when provided adequate space. Peaceful cichlids of appropriate size including larger Geophagus species, peaceful Thorichthys species, or Firemouth Cichlids work in spacious tanks. Larger peaceful gouramis like Pearl Gouramis or Gold Gouramis can work if the tank provides adequate space and swimming room for all species.
Bottom-dwelling catfish and loaches add different behaviors while occupying zones Giants don't heavily use. Larger Corydoras species, Synodontis catfish, larger plecos (Bristlenose or similar), and active loaches like Yoyo Loaches or Dojo Loaches make suitable companions. These bottom-dwellers benefit from sinking foods offered before Giants consume everything at the surface.
Incompatible species include shy, slow-moving, or delicate fish stressed by constant activity. Avoid Angelfish, Discus, Bettas, fancy Guppies, and other long-finned slow swimmers that Giants may nip. Very small fish including Neon Tetras, Chili Rasboras, and other nano species may be intimidated, outcompeted for food, or even accidentally consumed given size differences. Aggressive territorial cichlids are problematic, as are extremely passive species unable to compete during feeding.
Breeding Giant Danios is relatively straightforward compared to many aquarium fish. They're egg-scatterers that spawn readily when conditioned properly, making them accessible breeding projects for aquarists with moderate experience. Unlike fish requiring elaborate breeding setups, Giants can spawn with relatively simple arrangements.
Sexual dimorphism is clear in mature specimens. Females are noticeably larger, deeper-bodied, and fuller, particularly when carrying eggs. Males are more slender and streamlined with less body depth. When viewed from above, females appear significantly wider. Gravid females show obvious belly swelling with eggs. The size difference can be dramatic, with large females appearing 25-30% larger than males.
Conditioning for breeding involves several weeks of high-quality feeding with emphasis on live foods. Feed live brine shrimp, bloodworms, daphnia, and mosquito larvae 2-3 times daily. Females become visibly plump with eggs, and males develop more intense coloration and increased activity. Select the largest, healthiest specimens for breeding, typically fish at least 3-4 inches long and well over a year old.
Breeding setup requires a separate spawning tank of 20-30 gallons with gentle filtration. Fill with dechlorinated water matching the main tank parameters or slightly warmer (75-78°F). The tank needs spawning media to catch eggs and prevent parents from eating them. Marble substrate (2-3 layers of glass marbles covering the bottom), spawning mops, or fine-leaved plants like Java moss work well. Eggs fall between marbles or into plants where parents can't reach them.
Introduce conditioned pairs or small groups (2-3 males per female) into the spawning tank in the evening. Spawning typically occurs the following morning as light increases, triggered by rising sun or lights turning on. Males pursue females vigorously, driving them into spawning media where they release eggs and milt simultaneously. Spawning can be vigorous, with multiple fish chasing through the tank. Eggs scatter throughout spawning media.
Remove adults immediately after spawning (within 12-24 hours) as they readily consume eggs given opportunity. Eggs are small, clear to slightly amber, and may be difficult to see. Fertile eggs remain clear while infertile eggs turn opaque white within 24 hours. Remove fungused eggs if possible or add antifungal medication at half strength.
Eggs hatch in 24-48 hours at 75-78°F. Fry are initially tiny and attach to surfaces or rest on the bottom. They become free-swimming 2-3 days after hatching and begin actively hunting food. Feed newly free-swimming fry with infusoria or liquid fry foods for 3-5 days, then introduce finely crushed flakes, powdered spirulina, or newly hatched brine shrimp. Fry grow rapidly when fed 3-4 times daily, reaching juvenile size within 6-8 weeks.
Maintain excellent water quality in fry tanks through frequent small water changes (10-15% daily or every other day) using aged, temperature-matched water. As fry grow, gradually increase food size and reduce feeding frequency. By 8-10 weeks, juveniles accept adult foods and can join community tanks, though growing them larger before introduction prevents predation.
The relative ease of spawning, hardy fry, and rapid growth make Giant Danio breeding rewarding projects. Success requires proper conditioning, appropriate spawning setup, and attentive fry care, but these steps are manageable for dedicated aquarists. Breeding provides opportunities to share fish with other hobbyists and sustain healthy genetic lines.