Anubias

Anubias holds a special place in the hearts of fishkeepers who want live plants without the fuss, and honestly, no plant better deserves that reputation for being nearly indestructible. This African native thrives under conditions that would kill most aquarium plants, shrugging off low light, inconsistent care, and the attention of plant-eating fish that decimate softer species. If you have tried and failed with aquarium plants before, Anubias offers a genuine fresh start with realistic expectations of success.

What makes Anubias so forgiving comes down to its growth habit and physical structure. Unlike most aquarium plants that root in substrate, Anubias is an epiphyte, meaning it naturally attaches to rocks, driftwood, and other surfaces rather than growing in soil. Those thick, leathery leaves that feel almost rubbery to the touch evolved to resist damage and survive tough conditions in the wild. This durability translates directly to aquarium life, where Anubias handles beginner mistakes that would doom more delicate species.

The visual appeal of Anubias extends beyond simple toughness. Those dark green leaves create striking contrast against lighter substrates and complement driftwood beautifully. The slow growth rate that some fishkeepers initially see as a disadvantage actually means less maintenance, no frequent trimming, and a plant that holds its shape and position in your aquascape for months at a time. A well-placed Anubias becomes a permanent feature of your tank rather than something requiring constant management.

Anubias works exceptionally well in tanks with herbivorous or plant-curious fish that would destroy other species. The bitter taste and tough texture of Anubias leaves make them unappealing to most fish, including many cichlid species that otherwise view plants as salad. This opens up planted tank possibilities for fishkeepers who have given up on live plants due to their fish's destructive tendencies.

Throughout this guide, you will learn how to select healthy Anubias specimens, properly attach them to hardscape, provide the minimal care they need to thrive, and troubleshoot the few issues that sometimes arise. Whether you are adding your first live plant to a simple community tank or incorporating Anubias into an elaborate aquascape, understanding this plant's unique needs sets you up for long-term success with one of the hobby's most reliable species.

The Anubias genus includes numerous species and cultivated varieties ranging from tiny specimens suitable for nano tanks to impressive plants with leaves the size of your hand. Understanding these differences helps you choose the right Anubias for your specific tank and aquascaping goals. All Anubias share that characteristic hardiness and epiphytic growth habit, but size and appearance vary considerably.

Anubias barteri var. nana stands as the most popular variety and the one most fishkeepers picture when they hear the name Anubias. This compact plant produces oval to heart-shaped leaves roughly one to two inches across on short stems, creating dense clusters that work beautifully attached to small pieces of driftwood or tucked into rock crevices. The manageable size makes Anubias nana suitable for tanks of almost any size, from nano setups to large community aquariums.

Anubias barteri var. barteri, sometimes just called Anubias barteri, grows considerably larger than the nana variety. Mature specimens produce leaves four to six inches long that make a bold statement in midground or background positions. This variety needs more space to look its best but creates impressive displays in larger tanks where its full size can develop without crowding.

Petite and dwarf varieties have been developed for fishkeepers working with limited space or creating detailed foreground compositions. Anubias nana petite stays even smaller than standard nana, with leaves barely half an inch across in some specimens. These miniature plants command higher prices than standard varieties but create possibilities for detailed aquascaping that larger Anubias cannot achieve.

Some varieties feature interesting leaf shapes or colors that add visual interest beyond the standard rounded leaves. Anubias coffeefolia produces heavily textured leaves with a crinkled appearance, while Anubias lanceolata features elongated, spear-shaped foliage. Golden varieties with yellowish-green leaves exist but remain relatively uncommon in the hobby. These specialty types typically require similar care to standard Anubias but may cost more and prove harder to find.

When purchasing Anubias, you will find them sold as potted specimens, loose rhizomes, or already attached to small pieces of driftwood or rock. Pre-attached plants cost more but save you the effort of securing them yourself and eliminate any risk of improper planting. Loose rhizomes offer the most flexibility in placement but require you to attach them properly. Tissue-cultured Anubias comes pest-free and adapted to submersed growth but starts quite small compared to established specimens.

Pricing for Anubias varies widely based on size, variety, and whether the plant comes pre-attached to hardscape. Standard Anubias nana typically costs between five and fifteen dollars depending on specimen size. Specialty varieties and larger specimens may run twenty dollars or more, while pre-attached arrangements can cost anywhere from ten to forty dollars depending on the size and quality of both plant and hardscape.

Selecting a healthy Anubias at the store starts with examining the rhizome, that thick horizontal stem from which both leaves and roots emerge. A healthy rhizome feels firm and shows no mushy spots or signs of rot. The color should be green or greenish-brown rather than black or dark brown, which indicates decay. Check that leaves attach securely to the rhizome and show no signs of separating from it, as this can indicate damage during shipping or improper handling.

Leaf quality matters but requires some interpretation since Anubias leaves are naturally thick and may show minor imperfections without indicating poor health. Look for leaves that are firm and relatively free of holes or brown patches. Some algae presence on older leaves is common, especially on store specimens that have sat in sales tanks for extended periods. Minor algae issues resolve themselves over time in a well-maintained home tank, so do not reject an otherwise healthy plant over some green fuzz.

Placement decisions for Anubias differ fundamentally from substrate-rooted plants because you are choosing surfaces to attach them to rather than spots in your substrate. Driftwood offers the most natural look, with the dark wood complementing the deep green foliage beautifully. Rocks provide equally solid attachment points and work well for aquascapes that feature stone rather than wood. The midground works excellently for most Anubias varieties, though smaller types like nana petite can serve as foreground accents.

Light intensity influences Anubias placement differently than most plants. While Anubias can tolerate higher light levels, it actually performs beautifully in lower light areas that would be unsuitable for demanding species. This makes Anubias perfect for shaded areas under overhanging hardscape, in corners that receive indirect light, or in tanks with modest lighting that cannot support more demanding plants. In bright light without adequate shade, Anubias becomes prone to algae issues on its slow-growing leaves.

Consider water flow when positioning Anubias, particularly in tanks with strong filtration. Moderate current across the leaves helps prevent debris accumulation and discourages algae growth, but placement directly in front of powerful filter outputs can stress the plant and make attachment more difficult. The natural settling spot for Anubias is usually nestled among rocks or wood that provides some shelter while still allowing water circulation around the plant.

The most critical rule when installing Anubias is simple: never bury the rhizome. Unlike most aquarium plants that root in substrate, Anubias grows from that thick horizontal stem that must remain exposed to water circulation. Burying the rhizome in gravel or sand leads to rot that can kill the entire plant within weeks. The roots can extend into substrate without issue, but the rhizome itself must sit above the substrate surface or, ideally, be attached to hardscape entirely out of the substrate.

Attaching Anubias to driftwood or rock requires some method of holding the plant in place until it naturally anchors itself, which typically takes four to eight weeks. Cotton thread offers the gentlest approach, tying the rhizome firmly against the wood or stone and eventually dissolving after roots have attached. Fishing line provides a more durable option that holds indefinitely but remains visible and requires cutting away after roots establish. Superglue gel has become increasingly popular, creating instant bonds without harming the plant when used correctly on the rhizome rather than the roots.

When using superglue, apply a small amount to a dry spot on your hardscape, press the rhizome against it for thirty seconds or so, and then carefully place the attached plant into your tank. The cyanoacrylate in superglue cures instantly in water and is completely fish-safe once hardened. Avoid getting glue directly on roots since they need to remain flexible to attach naturally. This method works particularly well for small specimens or detailed placements where thread or fishing line would be too visible.

Positioning matters during attachment since you want the rhizome oriented so leaves grow upward and outward attractively rather than at awkward angles. Most fishkeepers attach Anubias with the rhizome roughly horizontal along the surface of the wood or rock, allowing leaves to emerge naturally in an upward fan. Attaching to vertical surfaces works too, with gravity pulling the leaves into graceful downward or outward curves that can create interesting visual effects.

Allow newly attached Anubias time to settle before expecting growth or evaluating success. The plant may drop an older leaf or two during the transition period, which is normal and not cause for concern. New leaf production from Anubias proceeds slowly regardless of conditions, so do not expect rapid visible growth. A new leaf every few weeks indicates healthy conditions, though even slower growth does not necessarily mean problems. This plant rewards patience and hands-off care more than constant fussing.

Routine maintenance for Anubias consists primarily of removing old leaves as they naturally decline and keeping the plant reasonably free of algae. Older leaves eventually yellow and can be trimmed off close to the rhizome to keep the plant looking tidy and redirect energy toward new growth. A healthy Anubias may only require this attention every few months given the longevity of individual leaves, making it among the lowest maintenance plants in the hobby.

Algae management represents the most common ongoing challenge with Anubias. Those slow-growing leaves provide excellent surfaces for algae to colonize, and once established, algae can be difficult to remove without damaging the plant. Prevention works better than treatment, which means managing overall tank nutrient levels, avoiding excessive light intensity and duration, and ensuring adequate water circulation around the plant. Some fishkeepers introduce algae-eating species specifically to keep their Anubias clean.

Nutrient requirements for Anubias remain modest compared to faster-growing species, though the plant does benefit from water column fertilization rather than root feeding since it grows on hardscape rather than in substrate. A basic all-in-one liquid fertilizer applied according to package directions typically provides everything Anubias needs. The slow growth rate means nutrient uptake is minimal, so deficiency symptoms rarely appear unless tank conditions are significantly off.

Rhizome division allows you to propagate mature Anubias specimens and share them with fellow fishkeepers. When a rhizome has grown long with multiple leaf clusters, you can cut it into sections, ensuring each piece has at least three or four leaves and some roots. Use a sharp, clean blade and make cuts confidently rather than sawing, which crushes plant tissue. Each divided section becomes an independent plant that you can attach elsewhere in your tank or pass along to friends.

Watch for signs that indicate your Anubias might be struggling despite its tough reputation. Yellowing leaves appearing faster than new leaves emerge suggests either nutrient problems or, more commonly, the rhizome may have been accidentally buried or damaged. Black or mushy spots on the rhizome indicate rot that requires immediate attention. Cut away any rotted portions back to firm, healthy tissue and ensure the remaining rhizome has good water circulation around it.

Anubias earns its reputation as fish-compatible because so many species that destroy other plants leave it alone. Those leathery leaves contain compounds that taste bitter to most fish, providing natural protection against nibbling. This makes Anubias a rare opportunity to include live plants in tanks with goldfish, larger cichlids, and other species typically considered incompatible with planted setups. While no plant is completely immune to determined destruction, Anubias resists more abuse than any other common aquarium plant.

Shrimp keepers find Anubias particularly valuable since the broad leaves provide excellent grazing surfaces where biofilm accumulates. Cherry shrimp, Amano shrimp, and other popular species spend considerable time on Anubias leaves, cleaning them naturally while finding food. The tough leaf structure also means even larger shrimp cannot damage the plant through their activities. Snails similarly coexist well with Anubias, though some aggressive snail species may rasp at older, weaker leaves.

Water parameter flexibility makes Anubias compatible with virtually any tropical freshwater setup. Temperature tolerance spans from the low seventies well into the mid-eighties Fahrenheit, covering everything from cooler subtropical tanks to discus setups. Soft water, hard water, acidic, or alkaline conditions all prove acceptable. This adaptability means you can include Anubias without worrying whether it matches your existing tank parameters established for your fish.

Other plants complement Anubias beautifully without competition concerns. Because Anubias draws nutrients from the water column rather than rooting in substrate, it does not compete with root-feeding plants for the same resources. Its low light tolerance means it actually benefits from some shading by faster-growing plants overhead. Java fern, another epiphyte with similar care requirements, makes a natural companion. Combine Anubias with moss, which attaches to surfaces just as easily, and you can create attractive hardscape features without any substrate-rooted plants at all.