Building C and C Cage

C&C cages (cube and coroplast) have become the gold standard for guinea pig housing. Unlike commercial cages, C&C enclosures are large, customizable, affordable, and easy to modify. A typical 2x4 C&C cage provides 20 square feet of space—far exceeding minimum requirements—for less cost than many small commercial cages. The basic concept is simple: storage unit cubes (plastic grids) form the walls, and coroplast (corrugated plastic) forms the floor to contain bedding and prevent leaks. Building a C&C cage takes a few hours initially but requires only basic tools and no special skills. Once built, a C&C cage lasts years and can be expanded, reconfigured, or modified as needs change. Many guinea pig owners prefer C&C cages because they offer superior space and flexibility compared to traditional cages. This guide covers material selection, assembly, and configuration options.

Materials needed for a basic 2x4 C&C cage include: sixteen storage unit cubes (standard cubes measure 14 inches per side), one large sheet of coroplast (corrugated plastic), and hardware for assembly. Most people purchase storage cubes from office supply stores or online retailers. Standard plastic cubes designed for closet or storage organization work perfectly. Coroplast is typically ordered online or purchased from sign shops—it's inexpensive and comes in large sheets. You'll also need: zip ties or cable ties to connect cubes, binder clips or similar fasteners to secure coroplast corners, duct tape to reinforce seams and close any gaps, and scissors or a utility knife to cut coroplast to size. Optional but recommended: a coroplast storage bin for the bottom (instead of building a coroplast floor) makes cage cleaning easier, fleece liners if you prefer washable bedding over traditional bedding, and storage for assembled cage components. For a 2x4 cage (two cubes wide by four cubes long), you need 16 cubes to form walls. Longer cages (2x5, 2x6) require more cubes. Taller cages (adding a second level) require additional cubes. Coroplast dimensions should match your cube configuration—a 2x4 cage needs a sheet approximately 56 inches by 28 inches (though you'll cut it and use pieces to line the floor). Standard coroplast sheets (typically 48 inches by 96 inches) can be cut to create multiple cage bottoms or configured for different sized cages. For assembly, you'll use the cubes as-is (no disassembly necessary) and zip-tie them together to form walls. The coroplast lines the interior, creating a waterproof floor that contains bedding and prevents leaks to whatever surface your cage sits on (floor, table, etc.). Some people use storage bins as the base, placing cubes on top to create walls. This approach is simpler than building a coroplast floor but limits your configuration options.

Building a C&C cage starts with choosing your configuration. A 2x4 cage (two cubes wide by four cubes long) provides 20 square feet and accommodates two guinea pigs comfortably. A 2x5 cage provides 25 square feet. Larger configurations (2x6, 3x3) work for multiple pigs or owners who want extra space. Plan your configuration based on available space, number of guinea pigs, and future plans. Lay out your cubes on the floor in your desired configuration before fastening anything. This helps you visualize the final size and ensures you have all components. Once positioned, zip-tie the cubes together to form walls. Each cube edge should be secured to adjacent cubes with two to four zip ties. Use a zip tie tool to tighten ties securely—loose ties allow the structure to flex and cubes to shift. Cut coroplast to fit your cage floor. If your cage is on a table, coroplast dimensions should match the cube configuration footprint plus a small margin for overlap up the sides. Most people apply coroplast to cover the floor entirely and extend partway up the walls (4 to 6 inches). This contains bedding and prevents leaks. Use binder clips or duct tape to secure coroplast edges. Some people prefer constructing a coroplast floor separately (measuring coroplast, folding up edges, and sealing with duct tape) then placing assembled cubes on top. This approach allows you to remove the floor for cleaning, which some owners find easier. Once the basic structure is assembled and coroplast is in place, add bedding. Most C&C owners use 3 to 6 inches of bedding (aspen, paper bedding, or fleece with absorbent pads). Deep bedding in a C&C cage supports burrowing and enrichment. After bedding is added, position hides, water bottles, food bowls, hay racks, and enrichment items as described in previous guides. The structure should then be ready for guinea pigs. Some owners add a second level or loft by creating a platform within the cage. This provides additional space (though guinea pigs spend most time on the ground level) without increasing floor footprint. Platforms should be sturdy and easy for guinea pigs to access. Finally, consider the location. Place the cage on a level surface away from drafts, direct sunlight, and temperature extremes. A table or sturdy platform keeps the cage off cold floors. Ensure the location allows adequate ventilation and temperature control.

The biggest mistake is underestimating the space needed or building a cage that's too small. Even a 2x4 cage is larger than necessary and provides excellent space. However, some people build even smaller configurations thinking they're sufficient. Stick with 2x4 minimum. Another error is using improper cubes. Some storage cubes have gaps that allow bedding to escape or have wire that's too flimsy. Use sturdy plastic cubes designed for storage organization. Cheap knockoff cubes are frustrating. Many people also underestimate the time assembly takes. Zip-tying 16 cubes together takes longer than expected. Budget two to three hours for initial construction. Some owners also fail to seal coroplast seams properly. Gaps or loose edges allow water to seep, damaging whatever surface the cage sits on. Use plenty of duct tape to seal all edges and corners. Some people position their cage on carpet or hardwood directly without protection. Leaks damage flooring. Place your cage on tile, vinyl, or a protected surface. Many people also fail to anchor the cage to prevent guinea pigs from pushing it around. A heavy cage might move enough to open gaps. Placing the cage against a wall and ensuring stability prevents shifting. Some owners also neglect ventilation. A C&C cage is essentially an enclosed box. Ensure adequate air circulation to prevent ammonia buildup. Most people achieve this with spot cleaning and good bedding management, but poor ventilation combined with minimal cleaning causes respiratory issues. Finally, some people build a cage too tall without considering guinea pig access. Guinea pigs can jump down from modest heights but might have difficulty climbing back up. If you build a second level, ensure ramps are provided and the climb isn't too steep.

C&C cage maintenance is straightforward once you establish a routine. Daily: Spot clean soiled bedding, remove uneaten vegetables, and check water sources. This takes 10 to 15 minutes and prevents odor buildup. In a well-maintained C&C with deep bedding, spot cleaning alone often keeps the cage fresh. Weekly: Do a partial bedding change if needed or a complete bedding refresh depending on odor and moisture. Many C&C owners find that weekly partial changes (50% bedding replacement) combined with daily spot cleaning maintains excellent conditions. Some with very large cages or excellent spot cleaning routines only need full bedding changes every two to three weeks. Monthly: Deep clean coroplast, inspect all cubes and zip ties for damage, and perform any maintenance. Check that zip ties are still secure and tighten if needed. Inspect coroplast for cracks or damage. If the coroplast is damaged, it can usually be patched with duct tape, but significant damage warrants replacement. C&C cages are designed for easy breakdown, so replacing components is simple. If you used storage bins as the base instead of coroplast, wash bins monthly to remove accumulated bedding dust and bacteria. The great advantage of C&C cages is that you can completely disassemble, clean all components individually, and reassemble. Some owners do this quarterly as a deep clean. Zip ties can be cut (scissors work fine) and replaced with new ones if you want to disassemble the entire cage. This thorough cleaning is optional—good spot cleaning and weekly partial bedding changes usually keep a C&C cage perfectly hygienic. Store assembly materials in case you need to make repairs or modifications. Keep extra zip ties, duct tape, and binder clips on hand. These are inexpensive backup supplies. Finally, if you notice any sharp edges or damage on cube corners or edges, sand or file them smooth. Guinea pigs might chew on cube corners occasionally, and smooth edges prevent injury.

Space-conscious owners sometimes build 2x3 cages for single guinea pigs. While not ideal, a 2x3 (15 square feet) is better than traditional commercial cages and can work with excellent enrichment and floor time. 2x4 or larger is preferable. Multiple guinea pigs benefit from larger configurations. A bonded pair thrives in a 2x4 or larger. Three pigs should have 2x5 or similar. The larger space reduces territorial stress and allows each pig personal space. For senior guinea pigs or those with mobility issues, consider a cage that's easy to access. Lower sides (single level) are better than tall cages with upper levels. Make sure bedding depth is appropriate for their mobility—very deep bedding can be difficult for elderly pigs to navigate. Pregnant guinea pigs benefit from larger space to allow them to move freely and establish nesting areas. Nursing mothers should have access to quiet spaces for maternal care. A second level or private area can be useful. Rescue or previously housed guinea pigs transitioning from small cages are often amazed by the space. Take time to introduce them to their new enclosure and observe their behavior as they acclimate to having room to run and explore. For very active guinea pigs or those prone to boredom, larger configurations (2x5, 2x6) provide more mental stimulation through space exploration. For guinea pigs that are more sedentary, a 2x4 is usually sufficient. In hot climates, ventilation in a C&C cage is important. Ensure bedding management is excellent and spot cleaning is frequent to prevent ammonia buildup that's exacerbated by heat. In cold climates, place your cage away from cold drafts. A temperature-stable location is ideal. The coroplast floor provides insulation from cold, hard floors—place your cage on a table or platform to further insulate from cold. Finally, if you want to show off your guinea pigs' space, many owners add plexi-glass or clear plastic panels to cage sides so they can see guinea pigs while minimizing drafts and drafts. This is optional but popular for display purposes. Ensure any modifications don't reduce ventilation or increase ammonia concentration.