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Rabbit Breeds
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Breed Organizations

American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA)
The British Rabbit Council (BRC)
The House Rabbit Society

Native Country
Other Names
Fur Type
ARBA Registry Accepted:
Ear Type
BRC Registry Accepted:

Breed Appearance
The markings consist of a white stripe down the face (often referred to as a "blaze"), a white stripe around the front torso (including front legs), white on the ends of the hind feet, and some other color over the rest of the body.

Breed Description - British Rabbit Counsil
Ears: short and strong, not pointed, and fairly broad at their base.
Eyes: Bold and bright, fairly large.
Blaze: Wedged shaped, carrying up to a point between ears.
Cheeks: As round as possible, and coming as near to the whiskers without touching. Also covering the line of the jawbone.
Neck: Means free from colored fur immediately behind the ears.
Saddle: Is the junction between the white and colored fur on the back. This line to continue right round the animal in an even straight line.
Undercut: Continuation of the saddle. To be as near up to the front legs as possible without touching them.
Stops: White markings on the hind feet, about 1� inches long, and to cut cleanly round the foot in a similar manner to the saddle and undercut.
Shape (type) and Condition: Compact, cobby, rounded. Shape also means type. Weight and condition also have a bearing on shape or type. The ideal weight of an Adult Dutch should be 4� to 5 lbs. Hard and firm in flesh. Back well covered with firm flesh. Not baggy in belly. Skin tight, gloss on coat, bright eyes, lively, alert.
Color: See below for colors.
Black - Deep, solid and carrying well down to the skin, with blue under color, the deeper the better. Free from white hairs and mealiness or flecking. Eyes dark hazel.
Blue - Deep, solid, slate blue, color to carry well down to the skin. Blue under color, the deeper the better. Free from white hairs and flecked or mealy coat. Eyes dark blue.
Steel Grey - Dark steel grey merging to pale slate blue in the undercolor. The whole interspersed with black guard hairs. The medium bright and evenly ticked shade is the one to aim for and the extreme tips of the fur will be tipped with steel blue or grey. The mixture to carry well down the sides, flanks and hind feet. Belly color will be a lighter shade varying with the top color. Upper part of the tail to match the body color; underside to tone with the belly color. Ears to match body, Eyes deep hazel.
Brown Grey - Slate blue at the base followed by a band of yellowy orange then a black line, finishing by light or nut brown tips to the fur. The whole interspersed by black guard hairs. That is the impression gained when the fur of the brown grey is parted. The general impression should be light or nut brown on ears, cheeks, body, hind feet and top of tail, the whole ticked with black hairs. Belly color and eye circles (small as possible) bright straw color. A lighter shade permissible under tail. Eyes hazel, deeper the better.
Pale Grey - Top color biscuit carrying well down and merging into pale slate at the base, the whole interspersed with black ticking. The general impression should be biscuit tipped with black on ears, cheeks, body and top of tail. Belly color white with pale slate undercolor. Eye circle white but ideally non-existent or as small as possible. Body color should be present on hind feet. Underside of tail white. Eyes hazel.
Tortoiseshell - An even shade of orange top color to carry well down and shading off to a lighter color to the skin. Ears, belly and under the tail blue-black. Cheeks and hind quarters (flanks) shaded or toned with blue black. Eyes hazel, the deeper the better.
Chocolate - Deep solid dark chocolate, color carrying well down to the skin. Undercolor to match the top color as near as possible. The deeper the under color the better the top will appear. Free from white hairs and mealiness. Eyes hazel, the deeper the better.
Yellow - An even shade of yellow throughout. The exact shade is not so important as that the color should be even and extend to the belly or undercut and no eye circles. In fact, a self color free from chinchillation on cheeks and hind feet. Eyes hazel.

Although the name suggests that the Dutch rabbit is from the Netherlands, it was actually developed in England. During the 1830s rabbits were imported to England from Ostend in Belgium every week for the meat market. Amongst these rabbits was a breed known as the Petit Braban�on, as it originated from Brabant in Flanders. The Petit Braban�on may still be found in paintings from the fifteenth century. The Dutch rabbit has its genetic roots in this old breed. The Petit Braban�on would often display Dutch markings, and breeders in England selected those with even markings, fixing those markings into the breed we know today.

Rabbits can make good pets for younger children when proper parental supervision is provided. As prey animals, rabbits are alert, timid creatures that startle fairly easily. They have fragile bones, especially in their backs, that require support on the belly and bottom when picked up. Older children and teenagers usually have the maturity required to care for a rabbit. Rabbits may grunt, lunge and even bite or scratch. Usually they do not bite hard enough to break skin. Rabbits become aggressive when they feel threatened or are cornered.